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Battery Breadboard

Oct 23, 2026 3d-printing 3d-modeling
Battery Breadboard

Overview

The Battery Breadboard started from wanting a convenient way to prototype projects without being tied to a bench power supply.

I had three design goals. First, the whole package should be as small as possible so it’s easy to carry around. Second, it should be easy for anyone to build, which means every component has to be easy to source. Third, the batteries inside should be removable, so they can still be used as regular portable batteries.

The finished Battery Breadboard held in one hand: a full-size breadboard in a black 3D printed case, with 5V and 12V labels and plus and minus Dupont sockets along the front edge The finished Battery Breadboard held in one hand: a full-size breadboard in a black 3D printed case, with 5V and 12V labels and plus and minus Dupont sockets along the front edge

Parts Selection

The first step in the design was choosing every component. My main requirement was that all of them would be easy to source.

Photos of the main components: two UGREEN 10000mAh power banks, two CH224K USB-PD trigger boards, two 6 inch right-angle USB-C cables, four Dupont leads, four 4mm banana jacks and the breadboard Photos of the main components: two UGREEN 10000mAh power banks, two CH224K USB-PD trigger boards, two 6 inch right-angle USB-C cables, four Dupont leads, four 4mm banana jacks and the breadboard
  • Power banks: two small 10000mAh USB-C power banks.
  • USB-PD modules: one per power bank. A USB-PD trigger board asks the power bank for a fixed voltage, set with its DIP switches. One module is set to 5V and the other to 12V.
  • USB-C cables: short 6" right-angle cables connect each power bank to its module without taking up much room.
  • Outputs: each module powers two kinds of output. Dupont connectors on the top and 4mm banana jacks on the front wall.
  • Breadboard: a large 1660-size breadboard gives plenty of room for quick prototyping.

Wiring Diagram

The wiring is simple. Each power bank connects to its USB-PD module with a USB-C cable. Each module then powers two outputs:

  • Dupont connectors, soldered directly to the module’s + and − pads.
  • Banana jacks, wired from the module’s screw terminal.
Wiring diagram: each power bank connects by USB-C to a USB-PD module set to 5V or 12V, which powers two banana jacks through its screw terminal and two Dupont connectors soldered to its + and − pads Wiring diagram: each power bank connects by USB-C to a USB-PD module set to 5V or 12V, which powers two banana jacks through its screw terminal and two Dupont connectors soldered to its + and − pads

Mechanical Design

With the parts chosen, I imported or modeled each one, packed them as tightly together as I could, and then designed the enclosure around them. My hope was that with this strategy I could keep the overall size very small.

The enclosure is two 3D printed pieces. The base holds the two power banks side by side, with the PD module assembly in a channel between them and the banana jacks in the front wall. The lid carries the breadboard and allows the Dupont connectors to penetrate through itself to mount flush with the top surface.

Layout of the Battery Breadboard with the lid lifted off: two power banks in the battery bays, USB-C cables to the USB-PD modules in the center channel, Dupont connectors that come up through the lid, banana jacks in the front wall, and the breadboard in the lid Layout of the Battery Breadboard with the lid lifted off: two power banks in the battery bays, USB-C cables to the USB-PD modules in the center channel, Dupont connectors that come up through the lid, banana jacks in the front wall, and the breadboard in the lid

Beyond keeping it small, I had two more goals for the enclosure: make it easy to assemble, and make the batteries easy to remove.

Removable Batteries

I wanted the batteries to come out easily for charging. Cutouts in the sides of the enclosure let you easily disconnect and push out the battery.

Getting the battery to slide smoothly, not rattle, and mate up with the USB-C connector was the most difficult aspect of the design. This took four or five iterations to get to a point I was happy with.

Side view of the enclosure. With a power bank installed it shows through the side cutout, where you push it out. With the power bank removed, the USB-C plug it connects to is visible at the end of the bay. Side view of the enclosure. With a power bank installed it shows through the side cutout, where you push it out. With the power bank removed, the USB-C plug it connects to is visible at the end of the bay.
Pushing a power bank out of the Battery Breadboard through the side cutout

Specs

The two outputs are completely independent: each one has its own power bank and its own CH224K-based USB-PD module. The limits come from the power bank’s USB-C port. It offers 5V/3A, 9V/2.22A and 12V/1.67A, up to 20W.

Spec5V output12V output
DIP switches000110
Max current3A1.67A
Max power15W20W
Battery10000mAh (37Wh)10000mAh (37Wh)
Enclosure dimensions: 183 mm wide and 160 mm tall in the top view, 32.5 mm deep in the end view. It weighs 741 g with both power banks installed. Enclosure dimensions: 183 mm wide and 160 mm tall in the top view, 32.5 mm deep in the end view. It weighs 741 g with both power banks installed.

Bill of Materials

Used in build is exactly how many of each part one Battery Breadboard needs. Buy is how many packs or items to order. Most parts come in packs, so you will have spares left over.

PartProductUsed in buildBuyPrice
Power bank  UGREEN 10000mAh PD power bank (20W over USB-C)22$24.99 each
Breadboard  BusBoard BB1660, 1660 tie points11$18.98
USB-PD module  CH224K USB-C PD trigger board, 5-pack2 (one 5V, one 12V)1 pack$7.99
USB-C cable  SUNGUY 6" right-angle USB-C to USB-C, 2-pack21 pack$6.89
Dupont leads  ELEGOO 120pcs jumper wires (M-F, M-M, F-F)4 female leads (2 red, 2 black), cut to 70 mm1 pack$6.98
Banana jacks  4mm panel-mount banana jacks, 10-pack4 (2 red, 2 black)1 pack$7.99
Wire  20 AWG silicone wire, red and black4 pieces at 125 mm (2 red, 2 black)1 pack$7.98
Heat-set inserts  M3 x 6 x 4.2 mm heat-set inserts5 (2 in the base, 3 in the lid)1 pack$6.99
M3 bolts  M3 socket head bolt assortment2 x M3 x 8 mm, 3 x M3 x 25 mm1 set$7.99
Heat shrink  Heat shrink tubing assortment4 pieces, one over each banana jack solder joint1 set$13.99
Wire ferrules  Wire ferrule kit with crimper4, one on the free end of each banana jack wire1 kit$14.99
PLA filament  Black and white PLAblack for the parts, white for the labels and power indicator1 set$26.08
Total$176.83

Checklist by step:

  • Printed parts: 1 base, 1 lid, 1 PD module mount, 2 cable retainers
  • Prepare the printed parts: 5 heat-set inserts
  • PD module assembly: 2 USB-PD modules, 4 Dupont leads (70 mm)
  • Banana jacks: 4 banana jacks, 4 wires (125 mm), 4 pieces of heat shrink, 4 ferrules
  • Install in the base: 2 x M3 x 8 mm bolts, 2 USB-C cables
  • Close it up: 2 power banks, 1 breadboard, 3 x M3 x 25 mm bolts

Tools

To build the Battery Breadboard you need a 3D printer, a soldering iron with a heat-set insert tip, a hot air station for the heat shrink, a wire stripper, a ferrule crimper, M3 Allen keys and a multimeter to test the outputs.

Here are my recommendations for each of the tools needed to complete the build.

ToolProductUsed forPrice
3D Printer  Creality K2printing the base, lid, PD module mount and cable retainers$521.00
Soldering Iron  ALIENTEK T90B adjustable-temperature soldering ironsoldering the Dupont leads and banana jacks$99.00
Heat Set Insert Tool  FEITA heat set insert tipspressing in the heat-set inserts$26.99
Hot Air Station  Hot air rework stationshrinking the heat shrink$156.99
Wire Stripper  Klein Tools 11046 wire stripperstripping the wire ends$16.24
Ferrule Crimper  Comes with the wire ferrule kit in the Bill of Materialscrimping ferrules onto the banana jack wires$14.99 (same kit)
Allen Keys  Wera 950 SPKL hex key setM3 bolts$43.96
Multimeter  DM40C multimetertesting the 5V and 12V outputs$150.00

Prices are from Amazon as of [10/19/26]. Prices change often, so check the links for current pricing.

Downloads and Print Settings

Download the print files from Printables: Battery Breadboard on Printables  

Print orientation in the slicer: the base flat on its bottom with the open side up, the lid top face up, and the PD module mount flat with the two cable retainers on their sides Print orientation in the slicer: the base flat on its bottom with the open side up, the lid top face up, and the PD module mount flat with the two cable retainers on their sides
PartQtySupportsNotes
Base (main body)1NONEDual color recommended for transparent power indicator
Lid (top plate)1NONEDual color recommended for labels
PD module mount1NONESingle color
Cable retainer2NONESingle color

As for filament, I used black and white PLA for all of the parts. Any material besides flexibles should work fine.

Build Guide

  • Print all of the parts in Downloads and Print Settings . (The base and lid use two-color printing for the labels and for a transparent section in the base that shows when power is on.)
  • Make sure you have all of the required parts and tools in Bill of Materials and the Tools .

Difficulty

My goal with the design was to make the build as simple as possible. The most difficult part is soldering the banana jacks and Dupont cables, so if you have the skills to do this, you can complete the build.

3D Printing

Exploded view of the 3D printed parts: lid, base, PD module mount and two cable retainers Exploded view of the 3D printed parts: lid, base, PD module mount and two cable retainers

1. Prepare the Printed Parts

The base and the lid both use M3 heat-set inserts. Every insert goes in the same way:

  1. Fit the heat-set insert tip to your soldering iron and heat it to about 250°C.
  2. Set the insert in its hole in the printed part.
  3. Rest the iron on top of the insert and press down gently. Stop pressing when the insert sits flush with the surface.

Step 1: Heat-Set Inserts in the Base

Install two inserts in the base, where the PD module mount bolts down.

Two heat-set inserts highlighted in the base, where the PD module mount bolts down Two heat-set inserts highlighted in the base, where the PD module mount bolts down

Step 2: Heat-Set Inserts in the Lid

Install three inserts in the underside of the lid, where the base bolts on.

Three heat-set inserts highlighted in the underside of the lid Three heat-set inserts highlighted in the underside of the lid

When they’re done, every insert should sit flush with the surface:

The heat-set inserts installed flush: two in the base where the PD module mount bolts down, and three in the underside of the lid where the base bolts on The heat-set inserts installed flush: two in the base where the PD module mount bolts down, and three in the underside of the lid where the base bolts on

2. Build the PD Module Assembly

Step 3: Set the Voltage on Each Module

Set the DIP switches on each module before installing it:

DIP switch settings. 5V module: 000, all three switches down. 12V module: 110, switches 1 and 2 up (ON) and switch 3 down. Set them before installing the module, then check the output with a multimeter. DIP switch settings. 5V module: 000, all three switches down. 12V module: 110, switches 1 and 2 up (ON) and switch 3 down. Set them before installing the module, then check the output with a multimeter.

Step 4: Solder the Dupont Wires

Take four female Dupont leads, two red and two black. Cut each one to 70 mm, measured from the end of the plastic housing, and strip the cut end.

Four female Dupont leads, two black and two red, each cut to 70 mm including the plastic housing Four female Dupont leads, two black and two red, each cut to 70 mm including the plastic housing

Step 5: Clip the Modules into the Mount

The two USB-PD modules clipped into the mount: the 5V module (DIP switches 000) on the left and the 12V module (DIP switches 110) on the right The two USB-PD modules clipped into the mount: the 5V module (DIP switches 000) on the left and the 12V module (DIP switches 110) on the right

Clip the 5V module into the left side of the mount and the 12V module into the right, so they line up with the 5V and 12V labels on the lid.

Step 6: Seat the Dupont Connectors

The four Dupont connectors in the PD module mount, left to right: red (+), black (−), red (+), black (−) The four Dupont connectors in the PD module mount, left to right: red (+), black (−), red (+), black (−)

With the Dupont wires seated, route the wires through the guides on the bottom so they line up with the banana jack solder points on the bottom of each PD module. Solder red to the + side and black to the - side.

The finished PD module assembly:

The finished PD module assembly. Top: DIP switches set and the Dupont connectors along the front. Bottom: the leads soldered black to GND and red to VBUS on each module, routed through slots in the mount. The finished PD module assembly. Top: DIP switches set and the Dupont connectors along the front. Bottom: the leads soldered black to GND and red to VBUS on each module, routed through slots in the mount.

3. Wire the Banana Jacks

Step 7: Soldering Wire to the Banana Jacks

Cut four of the 20 AWG wires to 125 mm, two red and two black, and strip both ends.

Solder a red wire to each red jack’s lug and a black wire to each black jack’s lug. Slide heat shrink over each joint and shrink it, then crimp a ferrule onto the free end of each wire so it clamps cleanly in the screw terminal.

Wiring the banana jacks in four steps: four wires cut to 125 mm, soldering a wire onto a jack's lug, a red and a black jack with wires soldered on, and all four finished with heat shrink over the joints and ferrules on the free ends Wiring the banana jacks in four steps: four wires cut to 125 mm, soldering a wire onto a jack's lug, a red and a black jack with wires soldered on, and all four finished with heat shrink over the joints and ferrules on the free ends

Step 8: Mount the Banana Jacks

Four banana jacks highlighted in the front wall of the base Four banana jacks highlighted in the front wall of the base

Push each jack through its hole in the front wall and tighten its nut from the inside, in the order red, black, red, black.

The four banana jacks mounted in the front wall, red, black, red, black, with heat shrink over the joints and the wires running back toward the center channel The four banana jacks mounted in the front wall, red, black, red, black, with heat shrink over the joints and the wires running back toward the center channel

4. Install Everything in the Base

Step 9: Place the PD Module Assembly

The PD module assembly highlighted in the center channel of the base The PD module assembly highlighted in the center channel of the base

Step 10: Bolt the Assembly Down

Two M3 x 8mm bolts highlighted, holding the PD module assembly to the base Two M3 x 8mm bolts highlighted, holding the PD module assembly to the base

Step 11: Connect the Banana Jacks to the Screw Terminals

Check polarity: the 5V banana jacks go to the 5V module and the 12V jacks to the 12V module.

Left: the base with the PD module assembly bolted into the center channel and the banana jack wires running to it. Right: a close-up of the ferrules clamped into each module's screw terminal Left: the base with the PD module assembly bolted into the center channel and the banana jack wires running to it. Right: a close-up of the ferrules clamped into each module's screw terminal

Step 12: Plug In the USB-C Cables

USB-C cable connectors highlighted at the end of each battery bay USB-C cable connectors highlighted at the end of each battery bay The base with a USB-C cable plugged into each PD module and its plug sitting at the end of each battery bay The base with a USB-C cable plugged into each PD module and its plug sitting at the end of each battery bay

Plug each cable into its PD module and route it to the end of its battery bay.

Step 13: Fit the Cable Retainers

Cable retainers highlighted at the end of each battery bay Cable retainers highlighted at the end of each battery bay The cable retainers fitted over the USB-C plugs at the end of each battery bay The cable retainers fitted over the USB-C plugs at the end of each battery bay

Once the lid is installed, the USB cable retainers will be sandwiched between the cable and the lid, holding the cable in place.

5. Test Before Closing

Step 14: Insert the Power Banks

Two power banks highlighted in the battery bays Two power banks highlighted in the battery bays Both power banks installed in their bays, plugged into the USB-C cables, with the PD module assembly between them Both power banks installed in their bays, plugged into the USB-C cables, with the PD module assembly between them

Step 15: Measure Every Output

Before closing the lid, measure the voltage and polarity at each pair of banana jacks and each pair of Dupont connectors with a multimeter. The left pair should read 5V and the right pair 12V.

If 0V is measured, make sure the connections are solid. If the wrong voltage is measured, make sure the wiring is not mixed up and the DIP switches are set correctly.

Testing with a multimeter on the screw terminals: the left module reads 5.13 V and the right module reads 12.02 V Testing with a multimeter on the screw terminals: the left module reads 5.13 V and the right module reads 12.02 V

6. Close It Up

Step 16: Fit the Breadboard into the Lid

One side of the breadboard fits into the lid from the top while the other side fits in from the bottom.

Breadboard highlighted in the lid Breadboard highlighted in the lid Pressing the breadboard into the lid, with the 5V and 12V labels and the plus and minus marks along the front edge Pressing the breadboard into the lid, with the 5V and 12V labels and the plus and minus marks along the front edge

Step 17: Put the Lid On

Lid highlighted above the assembled base Lid highlighted above the assembled base

Step 18: Bolt the Lid On

Three M3 x 25mm bolts highlighted, joining the base to the lid Three M3 x 25mm bolts highlighted, joining the base to the lid

Turn the unit over and drive the three M3 x 25 mm bolts up through the base into the lid’s heat-set inserts.

The underside of the base with the three M3 x 25mm bolts that hold the lid on, one being tightened with a hex driver The underside of the base with the three M3 x 25mm bolts that hold the lid on, one being tightened with a hex driver

Finished

The finished Battery Breadboard The finished Battery Breadboard The finished build from four angles: the banana jacks on the front edge, the side cutout for pushing out a power bank, the underside with the glowing power indicator windows, and the top with the 5V and 12V labels The finished build from four angles: the banana jacks on the front edge, the side cutout for pushing out a power bank, the underside with the glowing power indicator windows, and the top with the 5V and 12V labels

7. Example Project On Finished Breadboard

Using the dupont connectors I am powering this example project from the breadboards 5v supply.

The Battery Breadboard running an example project from its 5V output: a Raspberry Pi Pico temperature logger with an OLED display showing 16.4 °C and a glowing blue LED, wired to the 5V Dupont sockets The Battery Breadboard running an example project from its 5V output: a Raspberry Pi Pico temperature logger with an OLED display showing 16.4 °C and a glowing blue LED, wired to the 5V Dupont sockets

Turning the Outputs On and Off

Each output can be switched off without taking anything apart with the buttons on the side of each battery. Press a power bank’s button twice to turn it off, and press it once to turn it back on.

The two windows in the underside of the base show which outputs are live: each one lights up blue when its power bank is on.

The underside of the finished unit: with the power banks off the two indicator windows are plain white, and with them on both windows glow blue The underside of the finished unit: with the power banks off the two indicator windows are plain white, and with them on both windows glow blue
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